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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.